Hamasing: Kaohsiung's Historic Treasure
◎English translation: Wendy Wei Chang
Glorious history can be found in Gushan District's Hamasing. During the Japanese colonial era, Hamasing served as a hub for ocean cargo, harbor activity, and railways. It was also known as a land of opportunity for job-seeking immigrants. Behind the rise and development of Hamasing lies the depth of Kaohsiung's culture. Various architectural styles demonstrate its immigrant culture, with Sinbin Old Street preserving traditional Japanese architectural styles.
The scenery at Wharf 1, Gushan District is fascinating. Boats and sailboats dock at Wharf 1 while fishermen sell freshly caught seafood. In summer and spring, the sun shines so passionately it warms people in the blink of an eye. Flamboyant flame flowers bloom on Mount Shou. The blue sky envelops the port as tourists stroll through beautiful, seasonal scenes, arriving at stops such as Gushan Ferry Terminal. From there, they can take the ferry to Cijin on the other side of the harbor. This is the charming Hamasing familiar to tourists. However, Hamasing has more stories to tell. Sinbin Old Street, in particular, shows the glories of the city's past.
The ocean and the port paved the way for Kaohsiung's internationalization, bringing a diverse immigrant culture to the city. In the second half of the 19th century, North American and European businessmen traveled by sea to Takau (as Kaohsiung was then known) and traded in Hamasing. To facilitate trade, these businessmen supported the construction of the port. Yet of all countries, Japan has had the greatest influence on Hamasing, and a great many of the neighborhood's buildings date from the colonial period.
Hamasing is originally a tideland built on during Japanese rule. The old railway line is to the east, while the Taiwan Strait is to the west. Mount Shou –which some people call "monkey mountain" because of its macaque population –lies to the north, and the Port of Kaohsiung is to the South. The Japanese aimed to build a commercial port for the sole purpose of shipping, but they also constructed a fishing port. Kaohsiung then became a center of the fishery industry after advanced fishing equipment and techniques were introduced to the fishing port. Hamasing is located at the end of a railway line, and the name Hamasing derives from "Hamasen," which means "beach line" in Japanese. Local Taiwanese people adapted this toponym. During the Japanese colonial era, Hamasing included Kotobukicho, Shinhamacho, and Minatocho, etc. Nowadays, Hamasing covers southern Gushan District.
The different types of buildings in Gushan District included distribution centers, high-end restaurants, shipping companies, lumber stores, and hotels. Today, however, most of these old building are residential. Only two restaurants are still in business: Hifumitei Ryotei and Le Bon Marche. Tourists can enjoy these old buildings' distinctive interior designs while dining. A non-governmental organization, the Takao Renaissance Association, works to preserve old buildings and local culture. The association's office was converted from an old lumber factory. When in Sinbin Old Street, it is a good idea to visit the Takao Renaissance Association first, in order to learn about the history of Hamasing.
In Sinbin Old Street, one can always see couples shooting wedding photos, which shows how charming the buildings are. Mr. Chen Kun-yi, a tour guide at the Takao Renaissance Association, says the Distribution Store of Meiji Seika, which is around the corner from Sinbin Old Street, used to be a residential and commercial building. The building had two entrances: one for residents and one for customers. Another example of Sinbin's charms is the old Japanese inn Hontoukan Ryokan. It has wall-to-wall lattice windows on its second floor. Wooden shutters were installed to protect the windows during typhoons. The design is not only practical but also visually pleasant. The Sasaki Shop has a design that is simple and elegant with pebbledash walls. The pebbles were brought in from Mongolia! The well in front of the Lo Family House sparks the imagination of tourists, showing how people lived during olden times.
Hifumitei Ryotei reopened for business in August 2013. Owner Mr. Yao Ming-wei says the building is already 95 years old. Hifumitei Ryotei used to be a luxurious Japanese restaurant featuring geisha performances. Mr. Yao explains that the building was in good condition when he rented it, so it took just two to three months to renovate. To better display its beauty, he varnished the wooden beams and columns. From the interior design to the furniture, Mr. Yao has upheld the building's style. Most of the furniture is from Japan, and there are old history books in the restaurant for visitors to read. A wooden pillar as old as the building is tied to the roof. The Japanese believed the pillar was the guardian of the house, and it is now the restaurant's most popular attraction.
In the middle of the afternoon, sunlight showers the restaurant. Metal fences reflect on white curtains. The light and the shadows make the place extremely charming. Hifumitei Ryotei's elegant space and layout, as well as its history, attract many tourists from Japan and Hong Kong.
Today, visitors to Hamasing can trace its history by experiencing the city's present. Sinbin Old Street still shows the area's boisterous past. Each old building has gone through many changes and has a unique story to tell; each one is an historic treasure.
哈瑪星 體現文化的芬芳
◎文／侯雅婷
靜謐的鼓山區哈瑪星隱藏風起雲湧的輝煌歷史！哈瑪星於日治時期具有海洋、海港和鐵道運輸等優勢，是大批移民的希望之地，哈瑪星的崛起與變遷蘊含著高雄的文化深度，流轉的移民文化形於外的是哈瑪星豐富的街廓，其中新濱老屋街至今仍可窺見較完整的日式街廓。
鼓山一號船渠閒適的水岸風情讓人著迷，船渠內停泊著各式小船，零星的漁販販售新鮮漁獲，春夏之季，高雄的太陽展現熱情，不一會功夫，曬得頭頂發燙，北方壽山山頭一片火紅鳳凰花綻放著，藍天映著船渠，旅人漫步其中，季節限定的景色在眼前鋪展開來，踱步前往鼓山輪渡站，乘渡輪前往一水之隔的旗津。這是今日旅人最熟悉的哈瑪星風情，但哈瑪星的精彩不僅止於此，新濱老街街廓披露過往的繁華。
海洋和打狗港開啟高雄的國際化，也帶來多元的移民文化。19世紀中期，美商和英商由海路進駐打狗港(今日的高雄港)，在哈瑪星這帶從事貿易活動，美商和英商因為貿易需求，先後建設高雄港，外來移民之中，日人的殖民建設對於哈瑪星造成的影響最為深遠。
哈瑪星為日治時期填築而成的海埔地，範圍涵蓋縱貫鐵路以東，西面毗鄰台灣海峽，北方則有壽山，南方緊臨高雄港，日人築港以建設航運為主的貿易商港為目標，而附帶建設的漁港引進先進的漁船設備和技術後，高雄躍升為漁業重鎮，還闢建濱線鐵路運送漁貨，哈瑪星就位在鐵路末端。日語濱線為HAMASEN，當地居民以台語直譯其音為哈瑪星，成為當地地名。日治時期哈瑪星包括壽町、新濱町和湊町等地，現今哈瑪星泛指南鼓山一帶的統稱。
哈瑪星挾打狗(高雄)港和鐵路的優勢，成為彼時南台灣海陸樞紐，日治時期開啟哈瑪星的都市計畫，集政治、經濟、教育和文化為一身，哈瑪星成為高雄市最早的行政中心，當地棋盤式街道規劃，堪稱現代化社區的先驅。而隨著彼時的打狗港(即為現今的高雄港)營運的盛況吸引大批移民湧入工作，因應而生的銀行、報關行和旅館紛紛設立，各類型的商業活動澎勃發展，造就哈瑪星豐富的街廓。
歷經二次大戰時的轟炸，哈瑪星僅存新濱町（即新濱老屋街）仍保存較完整的日式街廓，位於臨海二路、捷興二街、鼓元街與鼓山一路圍成的街廓。昔日新濱老屋街林立著包括配給所、料亭、海陸運輸、木材販售、旅館等不同型式、功能的建築，這帶現今10多棟老建築多為民宅，僅有「書店喫茶一二三亭」與「好市集食品有限公司」兩間以餐飲型式對外營業，旅人得以一窺特色建築內部空間。此外，非政府組織「打狗文史再興會社」長期關注、保存在地文化，辦公建築原為材木工場，前來參觀新濱老屋街的民眾不妨先拜訪打狗文史再興會社，了解更多有關哈瑪星的故事。
在新濱老屋街道，常見新人取景拍攝婚紗照，老建築的魅力不言而喻。打狗文史再興會社導覽員陳坤毅說，位於街角處的「明治製?高雄配給所」為住商混合的建物，有趣的是，建物當時便設置商用與住宅不同的入口，避免互為干擾；而昔日為旅館「本島館」二樓大片格子窗戶在遇有颱風來襲時，會拉起一旁裝置的木板門，兼具美觀與實用的設計概念令人驚豔；造型簡潔的「佐佐木商店高雄支店」外觀裝修使用來自蒙古的白色石子，以抿石子的技法佈滿整個牆面，柔和而典雅的外觀，歷久彌新；「駱家」民宅門口的水井，頓時讓遊客對昔日居民的生活充滿想像。
2013年8月開張營業的「書店喫茶一二三亭」，經營者姚銘偉說，這棟建物已有95年歷史，原為著名的「料亭」，在當時聘有藝妓表演。當初租下這個空間時，建物狀況很不錯，經過2至3個月修繕、整理空間，他將屋頂的樑柱上了透明漆，內部裝潢乃至家具擺設都以不與這棟建築產生違和感為原則，店內擺設許多文史書籍供客人閱覽，許多家俱是他由日本蒐集而來，而屋頂棟樑以麻繩繫著一根木柱，令人好奇，這木柱與建築物同齡，已有95年歷史，為日人鎮宅的守護神，現也成了鎮店之寶。
下午3至4時，夕陽西曬照進屋內，鐵欄杆優雅的線條映在白色窗簾布幔，光影讓整個空間氛圍格外迷人。一二三亭優雅的空間、格局和獨特的歷史氛圍，吸引許多來自日本、香港遊客專程造訪。
走訪哈瑪星回憶歷史的足跡、現今，新濱老屋街廓依稀可見當年繁華的縮影，從一棟棟經過歲月洗禮的老建築體會文化的芬芳。